August, 2006

Washington, DC, and New England

(This page is probably best viewed within a window that’s just about this line’s width.)

 

          You might as well read this prologue – it may take a wee while to load the pix and God help you if you’re on dial-up.  Lemme know if the time is unendurable.  The good news is that unless you’re really paranoid (and computer savvy) and have reset your net caching, the second time you get here it won’t take but a jiffy to reload the pix from your hard drive rather than download ‘em.  (You will be coming often, no?  Actually, in my usual way, this has probably become too bloody long to read in one visit anyway.  Holly says I should break it up and no doubt she’s right.  Next time.)

 

          I'm experimenting with this new medium, having my own web pages rather than the old way of pix at Yahoo! and associated write-ups in your email.   This delivery system needs just an alert that there's something new – and it doesn’t expire in 90 days.  It's surprisingly easy to make web pages -- Microsoft Word contains the ability to make these simple web pages from stuff that looks and acts just like a Word document -- and most people with DSL lines probably have some personal web space provided by their ISP for hosting their own pages, as I'm doing here through Linkline.

         

          It must come as no surprise that I've gotten quite dotty about taking pictures, as these TwBs have become more pictorial than literary – I took more than three thousand pictures in Argentina.  Aside: All this reminds me of how often some technologies must wait for developments in a different technology.  Take digital cameras -- the picture from even a three megapixel camera occupies about one and a half megs of JPG file.  You might just barely fit one of those on a hard-case 1.4 meg floppy and some wouldn’t fit at all.  My new ten megapixel camera has a gigabyte memory card (with a nifty ability to convert to a USB memory stick); that’s the same as about 700 floppies.  (I had a lot of trouble computing just how high 700 floppies would be, at one time thinking it might be a ten story building.  I got a few of my zeroes wrong: the real answer is only about eight feet.  The memory stick is about the size and thickness of my thumbnail.)  Only two e-generations ago, my computer had a 20 megabyte hard drive.  I could hold just about thirteen of those three-meg pix on it - six if I wanted to edit 'em. 

 

          So here's a new TwB format - I'll write some stuff to the right of a picture and if you click on that picture it will take you to further pages, produced by Picasa, a free photo keeper-tracker and editor from Google, where you can browse more same-theme thumbnails and click to see larger pix.  Considering that the file size of even the large pix produced by Picasa are only two to five percent of the originals, it does a remarkable job.  The one here, for example, is from a file only three percent of the high resolution version.  If you have the time and a fast modem – it will take a noticeable amount of time to download – click on the picture to see the nearly three-megabyte after-processing one from which it was produced.  (Both of these pix link to the same place, the long-download one.)

 

 

          The detail of that hi-res version is remarkable: you can actually (just) make out your humble servant taking the picture in that large bottom droplet!  (Or maybe it’s like astronomer Giovanni Schiaparelli’s ‘canals’ on Mars: you see what you want to see.)  That’s not even counting that the original picture is much larger: what you see above has been cropped from the one shown here, as it came off the camera, to probably about one ninth of the original territory.  That drop can’t occupy more than a fraction of fraction of a percent of the original photo.   And remember you’re looking at compressions on this page.

 

          Unfortunately, depending on your monitor, etc, sometimes you'll have to scroll down a little to see the whole picture and there's no slideshow feature - you'll have to keep hitting the 'Next Picture' link or navigate via the Back button or returning to the thumbnails, which you can do by clicking on the big picture you’re looking at.  (You have to click on one of the thumbnails to reach the 'Next Picture' stuff and it can be a long backtrack to return to this write-up.  There’s most likely a little down-pointing triangle next to the Back button on your browser that lets you go back many pages at a time.  You can also copy the URL for this page and keep pasting it back after seeing a set of photos or create a shortcut to this page, but that always brings you back to the top of the page.  It’s tedious and I imagine Google will soon improve the product.) 

 

The Trip
(at last)

 

          I took a short trip to the upper East Coast in late August, visited one of my longest-time friends and his wife, Robert and Judit, for a week in DC and then joined Holly in Boston for another week plus a few days in a rented car in toMaine, to visit where she grew up.   As you know, Holly and I are both newly-self-discovered amateur photographers, delighted by the ease and versatility of new digital cameras and the phenomenal creative control given by software.  (Duh,)

 

          No more pictures that are slightly (or badly!) askew; no more underexposed, lifeless, listless, or gray-day pictures; no more having to take the whole picture or nothing or be a professional -- you can crop your own. 

 

        

 

          Or an even more dramatic example from a murky underwater shot:

 

         

 

          I make no apologies for the software editing.  I'm still very early in the process of learning just what Paint Shop Pro can do and Holly tells me I'm overdriving some of the pictures - I'm sure she's right, old eyes like lots of contrast, I suspect -- and I've been making adjustments as I learn more about PSP.  Live and learn; things will certainly change.  In any event, consider it a personal style, like writer e.e.cummings' refusal to use the Shift key or painter Walter Keane's luminous eyes.

 

          Holly and I recently bought the same camera, a Casio with up to 10 megapixel photos and incredible flexibility - you could theoretically make and save recallable settings of up to squillions of possibilities, including on-board filters.  Indeed, one of the tricks to using it is making sure it isn't remembering too much!  So this trip was partially a get-acquainted run with our new cameras, a reconnaissance tour if you will, and we took a lot of pictures.

 

Washington D.C.

The last time I was in Washington, Dwight Eisenhower was president.  (I can't say I remember much about it but I'm pretty sure things have changed.   For those who don't remember Ike, he was just before JFK.)  For an arid boy from Southern Cal, DC, is hot and humid - and my friends say it's nothing compared to what it was a few weeks ago.  Glad I missed it.

 

And I have to confess I didn’t see anywhere near enough of Washington.  It was simply too bloody hot and I was wilting after a couple of hours of shooting – I never even got to the Lincoln Memorial.  I could have cooled down by entering some building – not Congress, of course – but then museums tend to make for forced pictures at best.  There are no good backgrounds and hardly a framing device – like, say, a tree -- to be found anywhere.

 

Congress

           It being August, Congress, of course, was not in session; all the members were back in their districts running (scared) for re-election.  Congress is smart to get out of town in August.  Like I said, hot and humid! 

 

          There's a large security presence in DC - no surprise under the circumstances these days -- and what with regular and private guards, security could be the single most populated profession in the city . . . after lobbyists.  

 

          Speaking of lobbyists, there’s a shot in the buildings collection of the Willard Hotel which, my hardly-ever-wrong, longest-time friend tells me, is where the term got its name, from meetings held in the Willard’s lobby.  (Remember, click on the pictures to the left to get to more pix and then make your screen full size.)

 

          No doubt I'm influenced by the wonderful parks and perfect lawns of Buenos Aires, but the lawn that fills the Mall from the Congress building to the Washington Monument is pretty darned shabby, far more dead than alive.  It would help to have the myriad shade trees that grace Buenos Aires’s parks, to lessen the sun’s relentless onslaught.

 

          But there are always great photo ops in capital cities, from buildings to statues to flowers and DC is no exception.  Surprisingly to me, many of the buildings seemed squat and bulky, a chunky Soviet quality to them.  Not the Congress building of course.

 

Smithsonian Complex

          The best pix came from the area around the Smithsonian.  The buildings themselves are wonderfully ornate, rather like the Water Building of Buenos Aires.  The Smithsonian 'castle' is a turreted confection built in the late 19th Century - like the BA Water Building - from the money donated by James Smithson, who wasn't even an American citizen, but British, and the gift that spawned the complex came as a complete surprise.

 

          From http://www.sil.si.edu/Exhibitions/Smithson-to-Smithsonian/intro.html:

           "In 1829 English scientist Smithson left his fortune to the people of the Un ited States to found an institution for the "increase and diffusion of knowledge."  Smithson's impetus in providing for a research and educational institution in a new country on another continent remains a mystery. His bequest sparked widespread debate over what such a national institution might be. Once established, the Smithsonian Institution became part of the process of developing the U.S. national identity."

 

          “The Smithsonian Institution is now the world's largest museum complex, composed of a group of national museums and research centers housing the United States' national collections in natural history, American history, air and space, the fine arts and the decorative arts, and several other fields ranging from postal history to cultural history. The Institution includes 16 museums, four research centers, the National Zoo, the Smithsonian Institution Libraries (a research library system), the Smithsonian magazine, the Smithsonian Institution Press, a Traveling Exhibition Service, an Office of Education, and a number of other offices and activities.”

 

The Hirshhorn Museum

          Next to the Smithsonian (actually part of the complex) is the Hirshhorn Museum with a garden of statues.  Probably not surprisingly, again, considering their life outdoors, almost all of them were made of metal.  (I seem to have had trouble spelling the name, as you’ll see in the pix titles if you go there.  Too lazy to go back and change the names.)

 

          From http://hirshhorn.si.edu/museum/mission.html:

          "Conceived as the nation's museum of modern and contemporary art, the [Joseph Herman] Hirshhorn Museum and Sculpture Garden has as its genesis a passion for collecting and for the art of our time. We continue to foster this abiding interest in the contemporary into the twenty-first century.

 

          (Where’s my comment about statues??)

 

Vietnam Veterans War Memorial

          Well, sort of.  I took the metro into town with Judit, parting company as she went to her work and I to mine. After snapping my shots of Congress, I continued up the Mall to the Washington Monument, at the base of which is The Vietnam Wall, to take pix there.  Bummer!  New policy: it's still free but now it's all fenced in, you have to get a ticket from a booth outside the fencing, and text block of time I could get a ticket for was in another couple of hours. 

 

          That was far too late since I was at the end of my walkabout and so I arranged with Robert to go in again on Friday to have lunch with his book collaborator, David, and his son.  We got in a bit early so I could take a taxi to the memorial, get my ticket, and return to join them for lunch.

         

          And another bummer!  By early afternoon, *all* the time slots for that day were already filled.  Not only that, the taxi ride, a matter of perhaps 15 minutes, set me back nearly $20.  So if you look *very* carefully at the base of the obelisk - magnifying glass recommended -- you can see a few American flags - and *that's* where the Vietnam Veterans Memorial Wall is.

 

          Be warned about that new policy; I was told by some friendly tourist police that it was permanent.  Websites about the Memorial didn’t yet say anything about it while I was there.  (Note: the accompanying photo links to same group as the Congress building photo does.)

 

Statues

            Capitol cities are always full of statuary and DC is no exception.  (I still have a strong preference to Buenos Aires, though, with its statues set within great photographic locations and generous trees for framing.  Am I too nostalgic over Buenos Aires?)

 

          As I mentioned about the buildings, some of the friezes seemed straight out of Stalin’s Soviet Realism era of art, but among the statues photo there’s a delightful one of a fountain with a naked woman riding a horse that’s getting squirted right in the forehead by one of the jets.  Seemed ignominious.

 

On the Street

          The people on the streets of DC are probably much like those in other big cities anywhere.  There’s the usual proportion of people holding conversations with either themselves, an imaginary companion, or God, and various protestors and rag-pickers.

 

          There is also a huge presence of homeland tourists – I would expect it to be the city most visited by American tourists.  (Places like Orlando might get the nod for total visitors.)  Though not known as a person with a natural enchantment by children, not even I could resist snapping the cherub to the left riding her sun-glassed, skinheaded daddy – who turned out to be deaf.

 

Flora

            Holly coined a phrase about me during our photo safaris: God makes ‘em and I takes ‘em.  It’s true: I find flowers irresistible, with their colors and symmetries.  Many of the pix you’ll end up seeing in this write-up will be of flowers, perhaps more than really necessary – but how can you tell which picture is just the perfect one or that another better picture might not have just now appeared?  Plus the new toys and tools I’ve learned in the software.  Here’s a starter sampler of flowers from the DC area.

 

          Okay, that was D.C.  Not very comprehensive, I’m afraid, but there wasn’t much time unless I wanted either to melt with long days or wear myself ragged by going in every day.  On to New England!

 

Boston

          So to Boston to visit Holly, who’s staying with her son Tim and his wife Michelle.  Tim and Michelle are every parent’s dream: they took a year off after undergraduate studies to get to know the real world to teach and are now both in Boston on full scholarships, just starting their Ph.D. programs.  Tim is at Brandeis, planning to study medical physics while Michelle is at Harvard Divinity.  They live in Somerville, a short walk to Harvard, a quick subway to Brandeis, in a wonderfully funky apartment, one of four in an aging house, reminiscent of many of the places that held my hat in my own college days.  These must be the best years of their lives coming up.

 

Flora

          Well, there’s not too much new to say in the flower sections so I’ll use ‘em for comments that don’t seem to fit elsewhere.

 

          Massachusetts is a tough town for smokers.  Not a chance anywhere inside a public establishment, of course; in fact, there were many signs which warned there was no smoking within 25 feet of ‘em, even on the sidewalks.  Worse was that most outside portions of cafes didn’t allow smoking either or, when they did, those tables were already packed.   And I was kicked out of my Cambridge rental because my clothes smelled of smoke. 

 

          I had been ‘upgraded’ from a cheap basement rental, before my occupancy, after someone dropped by the B&B and wanted to rent my discounted room for the college season, so I was getting that upgraded room at about a third the price normally charged.  My eviction was on the second day, after a couple had come by to inspect my new digs, also interested in renting for the season.  Apparently, I didn’t smell enough of smoke on the first day.  Color me suspicious but I think someone was blowing you-know-what up my you-know-where.

 

          Mercifully, Tim and Michelle took pity on me and I spent the week in Boston crashing on the living room’s oversize beanbag – talk about your college memories!

 

Buildings

          Again – the comparisons between Buenos Aires, as a photographic opportunity.  Boston is where American independence was born and it certainly doesn’t lack for important historical buildings, statues, cemeteries, etc.  But Boston is a pretty compact city and it’s hard to get enough distance to get good pix.

 

          I Googled trying to find out just how many colleges and universities there are within a twenty-mile circle centered somewhere near Cambridge but couldn’t find out.  But there are an awful lot of them.  There’s Cambridge College of course, Harvard, and M.I.T., in the town of Cambridge alone.  Then there’s Brandeis, Tufts, Boston University, and perhaps a dozen or two more in that circle (I must be missing several well known ones).  

 

          Buenos Aires certainly can’t say that.

 

Peabody Museum

            The Peabody Museum of anthropology is located near the Harvard Divinity School grounds, with a connected museum of biology and mineralogy -- and probably more, but time ran out.   (At least I got into a museum in Boston!)

 

          From http://www.peabody.harvard.edu/general_information.html:Founded in 1866, the Peabody Museum is one of the oldest museums in the world devoted to anthropology and houses one of the most comprehensive records of human cultural history in the Western Hemisphere.”

 

          The picture here was in what I thought was the pre-Colombian section, I think, but that can hardly be right.  Perhaps some pre-Colombians had mythical blonds, but surely not with curly hair and mustache, which would be totally out of their experience, I think.  I think I must not have been paying enough attention.

 

          A building connected to the Peabody had a lot of gems and minerals but this is where my photo technique failed me, I kept taking them out of focus.  Living and learning.

 

Church

          One thing is very clear, though: the flamboyant Catholics do cemeteries better than the dour Protestants who dominated New England.  The same with the Protestant churches, of course, but we did find a Catholic church with lovely architecture and decorations.

 

          As most of you will know, England’s religious Dissenters were the largest source of early immigrants to its North American colonies.  The Dissenters were decidedly and emphatically not flamboyant in their relationships with God and their tombstones and churches show it, nothing like the marvelous tombs and statuary of the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires.  We took several pictures of the gravestones but they just didn’t have the individual impact of Recoleta’s mausoleums.  (MSWord tells me there’s no such word as ‘mausolea,’ as in datum/data, yet Holly informs me that the OED prefers mausolea.  But I digress.)  But the impact of many such humble markers is cumulative; in retrospect, I should have taken more overall pictures of the cemetery.

 

          One more thing about those more substantial structures, they didn’t tilt over with time.  Many of the modest slabs of the Boston Protestants just couldn’t, er, stand up to the ages.

 

Statuary

          What is it with these cows?  Those of you who went through the pictures associated with the Argentine TwBs will remember that Buenos Aires had a Cow Festival with decorated cows scattered throughout the city.  Imagine our surprise to find the same damned thing in Boston.  (This makes some sense in Argentina, known as beef country, but doesn’t seem to fit with Boston.  I mean, Chicago or Kansas City maybe . . . but Boston??  On the other hand, Argentine menus sometimes seemed more like pig country than beef.)

 

          As with Buenos Aires, the cows were there in their myriads and I could bore the bejeebers out of you with lots of pix, but you’ve been spared.  What I have done, though, is toss in a couple of cows from Argentina, too, for comparison.  The first two are from Boston, the next two are Holly’s shots from Argentina.  (She took better cow pix in both places than I did.) 

 

          As you can see from the two examples from Boston and Buenos Aires, they sure look to be made from the same molds.  Do you suppose they ship them from country to country, each new artist painting over the work of the previous one?  I think I recall Carin telling me that the ones in Buenos Aires were eventually to be sold at auction.

 

Sky

            That’s sunset over the Charles River.  (I tried to get some scull-rowing-on-the-Charles pix but I was too slow with my camera and they were too quick with their oars.  I think Holly has one that worked, though.) 

 

          I toyed a bit with the on-board red filter during the shoot.  The true colors on that particular day weren’t as you see them to the left.  But there are such sunsets on other days.  Is it fraudulent to ‘doctor’ a scene with filters if it’s still a fair representation of some other day?  What if there never were such a sunset on some other day?  Fraudulent now?

 

          More Than You Wanted to Know Warning: Color is simply the way your brain represents to your mind the pattern of nerve cells responding to stimuli on your retina: it’s like a code and ‘sky blue’ is the code for one particular firing pattern.  Those cells either fire or they don’t, no variation in strength, all very binary – and there are no colors ‘out there.’  Who knows what ‘color’ you see in your mind’s presentation of this binary data?  Would it be the same as mine?

 

          The typed letter ‘H’ doesn’t sound like ‘aitch’ by itself -- it’s just marks, no sound at all -- but when presented to the English-speaking mind it does.  Present that same typed letter to a Russian mind and it sounds like ‘enn.’   Whose mental representation is the real one?  (And sound, of course, is just the way the mind presents the pattern of nerve cells responding to stimuli on the eardrum anyway.)

 

          (Deep Question Alert: Ponder the difference between brain and mind -- how do binary biological nerve signals received by the brain cross the boundary to the mind’s conscious ‘image’ of color?  But I digress again.)

 

          I could’ve made that sunset green, but that would be as upsetting as that relatively new green Heinz Ketchup is – upsetting to my generation at least.  I’m told kids too young to have formed the prejudice about it looking like tomatoes love the color.   An amazing bit of market research when you think about it.  I mean, who would have expected this?

 

          On to Maine.

 

 

Maine

          Holly was born in upstate rural New York but grew up in Maine at the end of a spit of land where she could see the beacons of a half dozen lighthouses from her bedroom window.  Hurricane Ernesto’s dying gasps blanket the northeast as we roll into Maine, somehow appropriate for lighthouses.

 

Old Orchard Beach

          Holly and I do some e-searching for places to stay – it’s Labor Day weekend – and find a nice one for the two days after the holiday but nothing that looks good for Saturday and Sunday.  The weather is looking pretty terrible, though, so we decide to take our chances.  (There’s still a lot more that’s not on the internet than there is that’s on.)

 

          Ernesto has ruined one of New England’s prime holidays and we have no trouble finding a place to stay, a charming – and old – little place, with individual kitchen-equipped bungalows, in Old Orchard Beach, near the amusement pier where Holly spent many a teenaged hour.

 

          It’s overcast, cold, and rainy – a disaster for the pier as well as for the numerous cottages and eateries, but it gives us cheap rates and a new set of circumstances for taking pix: under the circumstances, sepia and black-and-white seem appropriate.   The large ATM sign on the picture to the left betrays the fact that it’s not a blast-from-the-past photo.

 

          Holly’s memory of it is like my memory of the house I lived in after my family’s emigration from Sweden when I was two, until I needed two digits to count birthdays.  I went back to it many years ago as an adult and was amazed how much smaller the rooms seemed, the fewer steps needed to cross them, how much closer the ceiling was.  Holly remembers the pier being bigger, though her years there were nearly adult ones.  Perhaps the overcast made it feel closed in.

 

Flora

          One thing about Maine was a continuing surprise to me: the number of businesses that are run out of private homes.  I don’t know if they’re the rarity or perhaps California simply zones differently from most of the rest of the country.    Lawyers, beauty parlors, and even dentists operated out of the  house.  Aside from semi-retired accountants and the odd Tarot reader out here, hardly anyone has a business at home, the separation is just about total.  Perhaps we have more land out here, to keep them apart.  It’s hard to see how it can be more economical to have it our way.

 

          One of the great charms of the East Coast in general, compared to SoCal, is the total lack of billboards along their major highways, just the greenery of trees all the way – until winter, at least.  Somehow, LBJ’s wife Ladybird Johnson’s highway beautification initiative had much more effect there than it did out here and the advertisements strung along our highways compete with one another, let alone the sky.  Maybe Ladybird banned billboards from within something like 200 or 300 feet of the highway.  In New England, that puts you into the trees, no point in erecting one there.  In California, many times that just puts you beyond a little mesquite cactus and desert.  On the other hand, even near San Francisco, with far more trees, they don’t seem to lack for billboards, just erecting them on higher poles.  Hideous things. 

 

Inn at St John

          Our hotel in Portland bills itself as the oldest continuing hotel in Maine, the Inn at St John.  It’s a charming old place, with very modern conveniences, and charming little touches everywhere, a dark, Victorian feel to it.  The lobby’s chairs are what I suppose to be brocade, set within dark red walls stocked with dark polished furniture, Tiffany lamps,  a replica of an old phone.  A delicate Oriental vase and stained-glass waterfall grace the stairway entry.

 

          We’re in the cheap seats, on the third floor, with a shared bath where we never saw signs of anyone else.  The stairways are labyrinthine, turning 90 degrees several times on the way to our room.  It’s a nice room, small fridge, washbasin, decoratively folded towels, and, strangely to me, no door to the closet that could be seen over my feet when I lay in bed.  (Why didn’t I think to take a picture of that little gem?)

 

          Have I mentioned the world is getting quite hostile to smokers?  There was no smoking in the rooms, of course, but nor was there some special room or even the ability to go out on the fire escape on our floor– An Alarm Will Sound, announced the sign.  No, the only way to have a puff was to walk down those winding steps and step outside.  And then trudge back up those three flights.  Isn’t that just a little bit punitive?

 

          First I’m kicked out of a room I’d booked and paid for, even after Holly told the owner that I was a smoker but would smoke outside.  Then there’s hardly a seat at the few outside tables in the few Massachusetts restaurants that even permit smoking outside.  Now I, a smoker, must huff and puff up three flights of stairs after every fag?  What can they be thinking?

 

Church

          We did a little creative aimless meandering and ended up in a posh area of Portland, a town Holly knows well, and ran into an empty church full of one of my new fascinations, stained-glass windows.  I’m pressing the limits of handheld photos with these digitals, I’m afraid.  As I said, there’s a lot of creative control on our cameras and to get the best clarity, I force the film to a low ISO/ASA number, which means slow shutter speeds must be used but I get more detail.   I’m still looking for a six-foot, lightweight tripod that telescopes into less than a foot and weights only a few ounces.  And cheap.  Tell me if you know of one.  In the meantime, I brace the camera on a pew and try to hold the thing still for a 15th of a second or even worse.  All could be better, but some are good enough.

 

Sky

          No green tomatoes in this set, but there’s quite a nice one of a cloudy late afternoon reflecting dramatically over some mud flats. 

 

          No complaints about the weather in Maine, there was the full gamut of it, from rain to overcast to patchy clouds to full sun.  We weren’t there quite late enough to see New England’s autumn glory but we did catch one species of tree that turns red a few weeks before the others.

 

Buildings

          Not far from the church where we took those pictures is a park and walkway overlooking the distant harbor, with lots of posh houses, very New England Elite looking, phenomenal number of bedrooms.   And our drives through Holly’s ancestral stomping grounds take us past many others.  The architecture and materials are different from those on the West Coast, of course.  Most of California never gets snow so peaked roofs out here are decorative, not mandatory.  And it makes sense to use local materials, of which New England had more wood and we had more of whatever it takes to make stucco or adobe.

 

          It was nice to leave the driving to someone who knew the territory and the people in it.  One of Holly’s neighbors is a man now in his eighties who was a foreign correspondent for one of the US networks.  He was still mentally active and we spent a couple of hours in his home, talking about current events and his colorful, adventurous past.  He was stationed mostly in Japan, lived there some 30 years if I recall correctly, and his house was another Victorian delight, with scores or hundreds of bits and pieces from the Orient scattered throughout the living room.  But it’s much like a museum, no good backgrounds, no good framing devices, and the one picture in the set of his bric-a-brac is as dull as dishwater.

 

          Southwest Airlines doesn't fly from Boston so I take the commuter train to Providence, Rhode Island, then a taxi to the airport to catch my homeward flight.  We get stopped at a signal where I can get this super distorted shot of their capitol building.  (There’s a normal view of the capitol in the Picasa set.)  I wonder if that’s what it would look like if we could see in all those extra dimensions cosmologists tell me are lurking about.

 

          And now on to something completely different: Cancun, Mexico!

 

 

Cancun

          How did I get to Cancun, you ask?  It happened this way: Holly was to hop on a plane for her new job in Kuwait by the middle of September but her visa was stalled in the bureaucracy and they wouldn’t be done for a few weeks yet.  Holly has a time-share membership which lets her get rooms in participating hotels for quite good prices and a long-standing interest in things Mayan so off we went for a week in Maya Country.

And just to confuse you, I’ll try a new method in this last section.  Rather than one example piocture from each set, one per topic, I’ll sprinkle lots of pix into a topic.  From here on, if you want to get to the Picasa thumbnails page, click on the topic title at the top of each subject.  If you want to go directly to a blowup of one of the small pix here, just click on it.

Picture Title in bold 18 pt Times New Roman

 (2” picture, additional text, reg 14 pt Times New Roman, indented .5 inches from right.)

Miscellaneous

        Holly and I wandered into Playa del Carmen, the town actually nearest our hotel, the Mayan Palace Resort.  Lunch is in a pleasant open-air restaurant owned by a Mexican history buff who has several old photo reproductions on the wall.  One is of Pancho Villa and Emiliano Zapata.  That’sVilla sitting, for photo purposes only, in the Presidential chair, the spit and image of Saddam Hussein.  Another picture in the set is of Zapata looking very much the romantic revolutionary.  The third is what looks like an over-the-top firing squad but was surely just some posed picture for the camera.

 

          Holly soldiers through one of those timeshare presentations, with the prize being a couple of tix for a tour of Chichen Itza.  It doesn’t start well.  First, there’s some confusion about where we’re to meet the bus and somehow, we’re told, that the we and the bus were at the right place at the right time but overlooked one another.  Seems unlikely.  I mean, sure, we could have missed seeing the bus but we can’t be the first clueless and disoriented tourists they’ve ever picked up; they must surely be on the lookout for the witless.  Fortunately, the formidable combination of a professional worrier and a dedicated warrier overcome the problem in time and Holly and I are picked up by a taxi to rejoin the tour bus some 15 klicks away, where the tour leader pays the taxista.

 

          It doesn’t look good when we’re driven through some insignificant town with a pretty boring church and don’t even have a stop to take any pictures.  Then we’re dropped into one of those places where the tourists are encouraged to buy horrible little things, the equivalent of horses with clocks in their middles, at laughable prices.  But they have some colorful representations of Mayan art on the walls which make for some good photos and I get an amusing picture of a stone icon with legs dangling from the ears.

 

          It gets better with lunch, a surprisingly good all-you-can-eat meal in a large hall devoted to serving tourists from steel buffet bins.  The entertainment is a half-dozen dancers in colorful native costume dancing with bottles or trays of bottles on their heads.  Again, it’s surprisingly not all that bad but photographs rather badly.

 

          Another prize from sitting through that timeshare presentation is a couple of tickets on a boat ride, featuring a portholed hull through which tourists can view the Undersea World; Hugely Disappointing.  The water was murky, the terrain not all that interesting, mostly low kelp, a few species of coral, a few of fish.  There might have been more, but visibility wasn’t much more than twenty feet.  I wish I’d taken a picture of the billboards that advertised these trips, a sleek-hullled ship with happy tourist faces peering out the portholes.  In practice, the ship was a floating box and the viewing windows were rectangles, not porthole round thingees.

 

          But I did get a picture of a couple apparently from a snorkel dive, who shared our tender back from the sightseeing boats to the docks.  I’m not sure that people that, er, immense really ought to be going out in bathing suits but, hell, who am I to judge?  Be honest, though – when you first saw those heads you thought ‘furry basketballs!’ didn’t you?

 

         

The following is various cuts-and-pastes from the Wikipedia entry for Cancun:

“In the early 1950s, Cancún was an almost insignificant island just off the Caribbean Sea coast of the Yucatán peninsula, home to three caretakers of a coconut plantation and small Pre-Columbian ruins of the Maya civilization. The government of Mexico decided to develop a tourist resort on Cancún, which was originally financed by a USD $27 million loan from the Inter-American Development Bank.”

 

“Unfortunately, the original very sensible master plan was repeatedly modified and, on the mainland, often ignored. . . .  [M]unicipal authorities have struggled to provide public services for the constant influx of people, as well as to control squatters and irregular developments, which now occupy an estimated ten to fifteen percent of the mainland area on the fringes of the city.”

 

“In Cancún there are about 140[!] hotels with 24,000[!!] rooms and 380 restaurants[less than three per hotel?  Maybe they don’t count the restaurants in hotels.]. Four million visitors arrive each year in an average of 190 flights daily. The hotel zone is one of the most exclusive internationally, with upmarket restaurants, bars, and the like which have catered for quite a number of the rich and famous. The hotel zone tends to be rather expensive as it is aimed at visitors and relies on the all inclusive hotels to keep them all in this area allowing prices to soar. Downtown is home to less expensive places to shop like Walmart, Comercial Mexicana and Soriana, not to mention several flea markets like the one in the hotel zone.”

 

Chicken Pizza

          It’s actually Chichen Itza, of course, but the guides have a giggle at the expense of the tourists’ mangling of the name with this little witticism.  (Wiki: The name is often represented as Chichén Itzá in Spanish and other languages to show that both parts of the name are stressed on their final syllables.) 

                         

          We’re told by our very knowledgable guide that Chichen means Mouth of the Well and Itza means Well Masters.  Wikipedia, on the other hand, says "At the mouth of the well of the Itza".

 

          Because there were no significant rivers in the territory of the Maya, they either built wells or they didn’t build civilizations, it seems.

 

Few tourists.

 

          Experimentally, I’m trying to make audio available.  It’s in two parts, about ten minutes each, and are audio from the Mayan part of a TV documentary on Mayans and Aztecs.  Click here for part one and here for part two.  On my machine, with an XP operating system, it automatically downloads (temporarily) and then starts playing.  If you don’t have XP or otherwise have trouble, I think you’ll have to take the URL and paste it into one of your audio players.  Let me know if you can’t make it work.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hotel

          Never a dull moment with Holly.  Great staff, nice rooms, huge pool, activities, swim-up bars.  Anyone wanna go on vacation?  Timeshare panic. 

 

          We’re not actually in Cancun proper but on the Cancun Riviera.  (There’s a world of difference between the beaches and if you’re an ocean aficionado, you’d do better at the Real Thing.)

Flora

        One of us just made it on the airplane, one of us was five hours early.  Bribe, beers outside, TGIF, rain coming,

 (2” picture, additional text, reg 14 pt Times New Roman, indented .5 inches from right.)

Picture Title in bold 18 pt Times New Roman

 (2” picture, additional text, reg 14 pt Times New Roman, indented .5 inches from right.)

Picture Title in bold 18 pt Times New Roman

 (2” picture, additional text, reg 14 pt Times New Roman, indented .5 inches from right.)

Picture Title in bold 18 pt Times New Roman

 (2” picture, additional text, reg 14 pt Times New Roman, indented .5 inches from right.)